For the past decade or so, the area just south of the center between Stazione Trastevere and the Tiber River has been undergoing a slow transformation. There are condos in an old mill, new bike paths, and at least one three-story gym. It feels like another world. But Rome is like that (more…)
On Tuesday May 12, the American Academy in Rome will host an interdisciplinary conference organized by fellow Ruth Lo on the history of covered markets and their reuse. Starting in the late-nineteenth and early-twentieth centuries, cities across Italy began to construct covered markets to modernize the food (more…)
Join me for exclusive visits to Monte Testaccio, an archeological site that is generally closed to the public. Composed of fragments of tens of millions of ancient terracotta amphorae, the site is a fascinating trash heap which testifies to the Roman appetite for imported oils during the Empire. We will begin our visit with some background of Testaccio, an area that was a hub of commercial activity in antiquity and during the industrial revolution and still clings to those traditions as the area becomes ever more gentrified. We will explore the concepts of ancient commerce and modern industrialization as we hike up to the top of Monte Testaccio for views over the old slaughterhouse, the Testaccio district and Ostiense’s industrial ruins.
Dates: May 26, 9:30am; June 9, 9:30am; July 8, 11:00am; July 19, 4:30pm.
Meeting point: Bar il Seme e La Foglia, Via Galvani 18 (Map).
Duration: The guided tour will last approximately 1.5 hours.
NB: Booking is obligatory and fees include a guided tour and admission fees. Wear comfortable shoes and bring a camera!
Tune in to watch the Rome episode of Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern tonight on the Travel Channel. The show starts at at 9PM EST and reruns April 28 at noon, May 4 at 8PM, May 5 at 3PM, May 11 at 2PM and May 25 at 7PM. Here are some highlights from our shoot…I’ll post clips after the show airs! (more…)
A decent carbonara is pretty easy to come by in Rome. But no one visits the Italian capital in search of a merely passable pasta dish. After several thousand Roman restaurant meals over the past dozen years—including more misses than I care to recall—I have narrowed down the top plates of pasta in the Italian capital, from cult classics to signature dishes, each expertly crafted, extraordinarily delicious, and worth a flight. For the inside scoop on gricia, you’ll have to check out Carla Lalli Music’s article in this month’s Bon Appetit, but my favorite pasta dishes in town are on BonAppetit.com now.