
One of the many dishes in Italy I cannot go without is caponata, a sort of sweet and sour eggplant concoction of Arab origin that has been made in Sicily in one form or another for the better part of 1000 years. While there is no doubt that it is best consumed there, I think a pretty strong rival can be found at Via dei Serpenti 19 in Rome. I am speaking, of course, of Al Vino Al Vino, my favorite wine bar where some of the best damn caponata around is served either on tartine (a bit spooned onto small slices of bread) or in a heap on a plate (I prefer this communal help yourself style). The owner Giacomo’s mom makes loads of caponata at home and he brings in a new batch daily. Like so many recipes in Italy, caponata’s ingredients vary; hers combines eggplant, capers, onion and liberal amounts of tomato. Compare this to the eggplant-olive-celery-capers recipe served at Taverna dei Fori Imperiali a few blocks away. Of course, both use lots of extra virgin olive oil, vinegar, sugar and love. I think it is worth trying both for the sake of comparison, but I think you will agree, Giacomo’s Sicilian mamma does it better.
Categories: Gastronomic Traditions, Restaurants, Rome & Lazio, Sicily
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Pingback from Italy News: 06.14.09 | Italy Travel Guide
June 14th, 2009 at 11:21 pm[...] If you’ll be in Rome between June 15th and July 31st, be sure to swing into Al Vino Al Vino in the Monti neighborhood to check out Jessica Stewart’s (of Rome Photo Blog) photography show. And while you’re there, stay for some of the owner’s mother’s famous caponata. [...]
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this is my absolute FAVORITE caponata!
May 17th, 2009 at 10:05 amI agree, it’s a close call but al vino al vino is even better, although both are great
May 17th, 2009 at 6:49 pmwow, this topic is much less controversial than I thought. So far, no one has challenged la mamma siciliana’s prowess. And I dont blame them!
May 17th, 2009 at 10:01 pmHate to ruin the party but I find Al Vino Al Vino’s version a tad too sweet. I like the chunky consistency of Taverna’s but then I miss the tomato tang that ties everything together. I guess I really am my mother (in law)’s daughter- her chunky, tomato sauce-based caponata is the perfect balance of sweet and sour and totally delicious. I like when she mixes things up a bit and adds in some thinly sliced artichoke.
May 19th, 2009 at 9:53 am@Megan Your comment begs the question: when the hell are you going to bring us marco’s mom’s caponata?
May 20th, 2009 at 11:17 pmI have to agree with Katie. Giacomo’s mom (who just turned 80) does the best caponata ever. In fact, I might have to go to Al Vino Al Vino tonight, just to get my weekly dose!
May 24th, 2009 at 5:34 pm@Petu lets get back there together sometime soon. I need it!
May 27th, 2009 at 1:28 amSorry we didn’t make it to Al Vino Al Vino last week – I LOVE their caponata! What was I thinking??? There’s always next trip…
June 3rd, 2009 at 3:50 pmKatie, first of all let me compliment you on you blog, what a vast collection of food you have gone through!
January 8th, 2010 at 9:38 amI agree with you about Giacomino’s enoteca, it is my favourite too!
But I think that his mothers “parmigiana” needs a mention as well, it is nothing like the other hard and dry eggplant parmigiane you find. Tt’s saucy and sweet It is something to die for!!