While researching for the Rough Guide Italy’s Basilicata chapter, my dad and I spent 4 days in Matera eating our way from one side of the Sassi to the other. After 2 meals I was convinced I could live there forever. We has some outstanding seasonal veggies, excellent grilled meats  (local Podolico steak), and spectacular wine (Aglianico del Vulture). One of the best places we ate was Lucaniere just outside Sasso Barisano on Via Santo Stefano (near Pane & Pace bakery, another favorite).  Since we plan our meals days in advance, we had made a reservation, which is obligatory, even in February which is low tourist season in Matera. (more…)