Browsing by Category: Culture

st-peter-cupola

Pick up this weekend’s NYT for a look at the annual Where to Go list, which includes my contribution, the Vatican. In April, Papa Francesco will canonize JP2 and John XXIII and the Vatican is anticipating record pilgrim attendance. The only way to navigate the crowds is with a guide. I have officially retired from doing Vatican tours–the sheer number of people they let through the Vatican Museums is criminal and I won’t be a part of it–but I highly recommend the services of my brilliant colleagues at Context Travel and Understanding Rome.

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Gelato, long associated with hot Roman summers, has become a year-round treat in the Italian capital’s all-natural shops. The city’s artisans turn to savory flavors, often paired with alcohol, to entice customers. More in this weekend’s New York Times.

antonio
“The bread of the past…today.”

While my neighbors are losing their minds over the totally gross, dumb and boring Brasilian temaki joint that just opened in Monti, something actually important happened in our gastronomically overrated ‘hood. Dall’Antò, a shop specializing in rare breads and flatbreads made from heirloom wheats, chickpea (more…)

gravyer wide

It’s been a while since a trip has changed me for the better. Delays, lost luggage, interminable waits at baggage claim and the squalid conditions at Fiumicino Airport are enough to make anyone embittered. My deep affection for efficiency and innate cynicism make me particularly susceptible. For (more…)

kasar kars

By noon, I was drenched in whey, caked in cow shit and my left hand itched. It was pretty much the best day ever. It started in the workshop of a small kaşar producer near Kars, where cow’s milk curds are melted and worked by hand into this traditional Anatolian cheese. The visit was part of a full immersion into Kars’ food culture organized by İlhan Koçulu (more…)