Browsing by Category: Food & Wine
For centuries, pizza in Naples – indeed, across Italy – was meant to be a cheap fast food. It became such an ubiquitous phenomenon that many pizzerie have managed to skate by on sub-par ingredients, quick doughs and low-quality toppings. Only recently has pizza in Naples and beyond entered a new era. Call it third-wave pizza, a movement that celebrates raw materials, gives supreme attention to fermentation, and restores dignity to the craft. I share the whole story with Australian Gourmet Traveller in their annual Italy issue, on newsstands now, and available online here.
From February 23 until ???, Pizzarium will temporarily shut its doors at Via della Meloria 43 to undertake a renovation that will double its size. While works are going on, there will be a free shuttle service to take customers from closed Pizzarium to nearby Panificio Bonci (Via Trionfale 36), where Pizzarium-style pizza will be served while the renovations are carried out. During this period, Panificio Bonci, which went vegetarian in November, will be serving meaty toppings. And perhaps more importantly, Vito Bernabei’s spectacular porchetta has returned for this limited time! Stay tuned for updates on the work!
Update: Pizzarium reopened on Thursday March 12!
As far back as the 2nd century B.C.E., Jews have made their home in Rome and represent the oldest Jewish community in the world outside Israel. What we recognize today as Roman Jewish cooking is fruit of universal Jewish dietary guidelines and, perhaps most importantly, the community’s forced isolation into a gated ghetto for 300 years, which resulted in a unique spin on traditional Italian and Jewish cuisine, using what limited ingredients were available. Additionally, the cuisine reflects many outsider influences—result of the Jewish diaspora of the 15th century as direct result of the Spanish Inquisition, and again in the 1960s when thousands of Jews fleeing Libya settled in Rome.
Beginning in May of this year, Milan will host the Expo, an international, 6-month long, food-oriented world’s fair. Italy has projected that 20 to 30 million visitors will converge on Milan for the festivities, figures that would break tourism records in the Italian business and fashion capital. Although the city has long been written off (more…)
Join me and the team from Philly’s Rome-inspired restaurant Amis for a very special dinner on February 18. Chefs Brad Spence, Ned Maddock and the crew are butchering a whole lamb for the feast and beverage director Steve Wildy will be pouring amazing beer, wine and liquors from Lazio. I’ll be curating the meal and walking guests through the cultural history of lamb in Rome. Here’s what we’ll be serving:
Carrots, radish, celery, fennel, cauliflower with olive oil salt and pepper
Breaded and fried lamb brains with lemon
Abbacchio allo Scottadito
Suckling lamb chops fried on the plancha
Lamb kababs with sage and pancetta on toast
Lamb sausage spedini
Tonnarelli with lamb livers and tomato sauce
Fettuccine with braised leg ragu
Lamb stew with egg and lemon
Ricotta, pine nut and bitter choc tart
Citrus sorbetto with RSFP biscotti
Dinner starts at 6:30PM and costs $65 plus tax and gratuity. The optional beverage pairing is $30. Reservations are essential. To book, call 215-732-2647.