Browsing by Category: Gastronomic Traditions

ventricina-1

Grossolana. The word has a ring to it in Italian that it could only dream of in its English incarnation (in which it translates as “coarse”). Say it with me: grossssssolana! Few words are so fun to say and I can’t help but think that this linguistic affection contributes to my love of ventricina del Vastese (more…)

rome_snow_winter

UPDATED FOR 2014! There is a widely held misconception that during the Christmas and New Year’s holidays, Rome’s restaurants shut down and people who don’t have the luxury of eating at home are left to scavenge for food (more…)

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Waaaay back in December 2012, I wrote a post in which I put Flavio al Velavevodetto (and few other places) on notice. That year, Flavio, a Testaccio-based restaurant specializing in traditional Roman fare, had gone from being (more…)

paccheri enoteca provincia romana

When Enoteca Provincia Romana opened four years ago just off Piazza Venezia, local guides rejoiced. Finally, there was a place near the Roman Forum where one could go for a decent meal, plus it offered a view of Trajan’s Column and the Altare della Patria to boot. The food was good, but not flawless, and the place rarely (more…)

mordi-e-vai-testaccio
Sergio Esposito preparing a panino all’allesso.

When the new Mercato di Testaccio opened in July 2012, vendors and shoppers did not universally rejoice. Higher rents, a less convenient location, a sterile atmosphere and a competing weekend farmers’ market nearby were among the complaints. But in the two and a half years since the structure’s inauguration, the market (more…)