Browsing by Category: Rome on a Budget

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Sorry to all my fellow meat eating, lard loving carnivores out there. Gone are the days of chowing down on a luscious slice of Vito Bernabei’s porchetta sandwiched between two crisp pieces of Bonci’s pizza bianca. As of November 3, 2014, Gabriele Bonci’s eponymous bakery on Via Trionfale is 100% vegetarian. Rome’s most (more…)

cesare bergamini eel fisherman

Cesare and Alfredo Bergamini have been fishing for eels in the Tiber since 1947. Now 74 and 77, respectively, the brothers learned the profession from their grandfather. In post-war Rome, they shared the water with other eel fishermen–and a great deal more eels. But falling eel stock caused by pollution coupled with spiraling profitability due to collapsed demand has driven others away from the trade. (more…)

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Sergio Esposito preparing a panino all’allesso.

When the new Mercato di Testaccio opened in July 2012, vendors and shoppers did not universally rejoice. Higher rents, a less convenient location, a sterile atmosphere and a competing weekend farmers’ market nearby were among the complaints. But in the two and a half years since the structure’s inauguration, the market (more…)

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Fried things at Supplizio.

This summer, I had the tremendous joy/honor of collaborating with prolific restaurant and portrait photographer Daniel Krieger, whose work you might recognize from The New York Times, Esquire, Bon Appetit, GQ, Eater, and The Wall Street Journal, among other publications. Our piece for Punch, detailing a boozy Saturday night in Rome, turned out beautifully and I’m thrilled to share our piece for Food & Wine featuring Rome’s growing street food scene. Check out our words and images here.

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Trastevere was once a haven of cheap, delectable, no-frills dining, but in recent years, the district has become a bastion of tourist traps in which cheesy checked tablecloths and aggressive touts are far more numerous than great meals. This district, which lies on the Tiber River’s left bank, opposite the Centro Storico, is undeniably (more…)