Browsing by Category: Rome on a Budget

daniele sartor
Daniele Sartor grilling at last month’s special opening.

I’m not so into Halloween. I do love sweets and normally I’m on board for any activity that may result in piles of bite sized Milky Ways. But I hate dressing up. Ask Mamma Parla: I wore my travel soccer uniform as my costume for from 1990 to 1997. I was the worst. And now that I am too old for free candy, I really don’t (more…)

Artenio Testaccio

If you’re curious how, in spite of intense daily exercise, I keep my BMI right around (emphasis on “round”) 26, it’s simple: I eat pizza for breakfast, lunch and dinner. My source for the most important meal of the day? That depends. Some mornings I find myself in the centro storico where countless Romans scarf down (more…)


For the past decade or so, the area just south of the center between Stazione Trastevere and the Tiber River has been undergoing a slow transformation. There are condos in an old mill, new bike paths, and at least one three-story gym. It feels like another world. But Rome is like that (more…)

Photo 02-12-14 14 48 53

Sorry to all my fellow meat eating, lard loving carnivores out there. Gone are the days of chowing down on a luscious slice of Vito Bernabei’s porchetta sandwiched between two crisp pieces of Bonci’s pizza bianca. As of November 3, 2014, Gabriele Bonci’s eponymous bakery on Via Trionfale is 100% vegetarian. Rome’s most (more…)

cesare bergamini eel fisherman

Cesare and Alfredo Bergamini have been fishing for eels in the Tiber since 1947. Now 74 and 77, respectively, the brothers learned the profession from their grandfather. In post-war Rome, they shared the water with other eel fishermen–and a great deal more eels. But falling eel stock caused by pollution coupled with spiraling profitability due to collapsed demand has driven others away from the trade. (more…)