Sicily Archive

Because when you walk through the Capo Market and pull your camera out to photograph a man with half a cow slung over his shoulder, you get the strange looks, not him.

When you think of food and Christianity, it is items mentioned in the Old and New Testaments like figs, olives, fish, and bread that spring to mind. But at La Martorana in Palermo, food without a biblical precursor is synonymous with the church. (more…)

It is not a coincidence that the Setteveli cake has the same number of strata as there are deadly sins. This seven layer confection so perfectly inspires gluttony that had it been around in the thirteenth century, Dante surely would have (more…)

Ask any palermitano/a what his or her favorite place to eat is and the answer is always the same: a casa. No exceptions. Since not everyone can go home for lunch, small, rustic trattorie are stationed strategically in and around the Capo (more…)

After a satisfying lunch of seasonal vegetable starters and fried fish at Zia Pina near the Vucciria, I set out with my friends Diana and Conchita in search of dessert. Our destination was Cappello, a pastry shop just outside Porta Nuova famous for its setteveli (seven layer chocolate cake). (more…)

What do you get when you cross the crispy outer shell and meaty filling of an arancina with the spongy inner dough of a Crispy Creme donut? The answer is the rizzuola, a deep fried Sicilian snack that eats like a meal. (more…)

A frittura mista can be roughly translated as “mixed fried things” and it’s never better than when said fried things are fish. (more…)

Panelle are deep fried chick pea fritters, a starchy combination of chick pea flour, water, herbs, and salt that are found widely in western Sicily. (more…)

Yesterday during a tragically brief stop in Palermo, I met my friend Conchita at Il Chiosco delle Cremolose for refreshing treat. (more…)

For me, nothing says summer like a bit of boiled veal muzzle or cow nuckle spritzed with lemon. These southern Italian specialties (look for them in the markets of Palermo and Naples) are diced up to order and served as a refreshing snack. Yesterday, I spied some as I strolled through Borgo Vecchio in Palermo, though you can also find it in the Capo, Vucciria, and Ballaro’ markets; look for them in Pignasecca and Forcella in Naples. Who needs gelato?