Browsing by Category: Travel

The ancient Temple of Bacchus.

On Tuesday, I visited ancient Heliopolis in the city of Baalbek in eastern Lebanon. Thanks to my degree in art history with a concentration in Roman antiquity, I tend to view archeological sites as being divorced from their contemporary surroundings. I think we all do this to some extent. Of the millions of annual (more…)

WTF is everyone? A failed selfie, some Roman ruins and no people at a spectacular archeological site.

Hey, folks. It’s been a while since I have written a real post and not a list or a round up or a summary of an article published elsewhere. I’m sorry about that. The past year has been a rough one and I am tired. Like, really tired. And it has (more…)

fatamorgana trastevere gelato

In Rome, eating gelato is a year-round ritual, but since the temperatures have soared recently, I thought it was high time to update my annual gelato guide. There’s a bit of breaking news to report: Fatamorgana’s Prati location moved from Via Bettolo to Via Leone IV last week, so now it’s even closer to the Vatican walls. Ermanno di Pomponio has left Neve di Latte, while Carapina in central Rome raised the price of a small cup to €3.00, making it one of the priciest scoops in town, but worth every euro-cent. Al Settimo Gelo has expanded its offerings to buffalo’s milk gelato, which it makes for MozzaRe in Trastevere (peep the royally cheesy website). The pistachio will change your life.

View The Best Gelato in Rome and Therefore the World in a larger map

For more on gelato in Rome, check out this handy Google map pinpointing the best of the best or download my app or ebook for a portable version that works offline. And if low-tech gelato hunts are more your speed, be sure to brush up on how to judge gelato in 7 easy steps and these tips for finding natural gelato in Rome.

Monte Testaccio 1

Join me for exclusive visits to Monte Testaccio, an archeological site that is generally closed to the public. Composed of fragments of tens of millions of ancient terracotta amphorae, the site is a fascinating trash heap which testifies to the Roman appetite for imported oils during the Empire. We will begin our visit with some background of Testaccio, an area that was a hub of commercial activity in antiquity and during the industrial revolution and still clings to those traditions as the area becomes ever more gentrified. We will explore the concepts of ancient commerce and modern industrialization as we hike up to the top of Monte Testaccio for views over the old slaughterhouse, the Testaccio district and Ostiense’s industrial ruins.

Dates: May 26, 9:30am; June 9, 9:30am; July 8, 11:00am; July 19, 4:30pm.

Meeting point: Bar il Seme e La Foglia, Via Galvani 18 (Map).

Duration: The guided tour will last approximately 1.5 hours.

NB: Booking is obligatory and fees include a guided tour and admission fees. Wear comfortable shoes and bring a camera!

Monte Testaccio ShardMonte Testaccio PanoramaMonte Testaccio inscriptionMonte Testaccio Gazometro


Tune in to watch the Rome episode of Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern tonight on the Travel Channel. The show starts at at 9PM EST and reruns April 28 at noon, May 4 at 8PM, May 5 at 3PM, May 11 at 2PM and May 25 at 7PM. Here are some highlights from our shoot…I’ll post clips after the show airs! (more…)