Browsing by Category: Turkish Cuisine

gravyer wide

It’s been a while since a trip has changed me for the better. Delays, lost luggage, interminable waits at baggage claim and the squalid conditions at Fiumicino Airport are enough to make anyone embittered. My deep affection for efficiency and innate cynicism make me particularly susceptible. For (more…)

kasar kars

By noon, I was drenched in whey, caked in cow shit and my left hand itched. It was pretty much the best day ever. It started in the workshop of a small kaşar producer near Kars, where cow’s milk curds are melted and worked by hand into this traditional Anatolian cheese. The visit was part of a full immersion into Kars’ food culture organized by İlhan Koçulu (more…)

semsa kars
Şemsa channeling her inner Ceres.

Today I profiled a Milan fashion blogger for a British publication. Already under normal circumstances, a puff piece like this would have driven me to the verge self-harm. But in light of my recent visit to Kars, the profound pointlessness of the aforementioned subject was even more (more…)

kastamonu pazar istanbul

I never used to have a problem with public speaking. I owned the stage back in high school when I was in student council (no, I am not ashamed to admit that I peaked in the 1990s). Then again, I used to practice my speeches. I should start doing that again. I just got home from presenting (more…)

adana kebap

Earlier this week, Eater ran my Istanbul Heatmap, a collection of places that are new (or at least have something new about them). If I could have written only about the places I love, no matter how long they have been established, the piece would have gone a little something like this: (more…)