I am a firm believer that if you are going to eat sugar, you’d might as well go all the way. Don’t dissolve it one bit. I want to feel the crystals grind between my teeth. A dessert at Settimio on Via del Pellegrino in Rome allows me to do just that. I am speaking of Montblanc, a sacchariferous mound of whipped cream, meringue, chestnut paste, and bits of marron glacĂ©. It is so sweet it makes my teeth hurt just to think about it. But, for me, that is not a bad thing.