Turkey has the best food in the world (sorry Italy!) so when a place is dubbed “the best” I demand perfection. Güllüoglu, a pastry shop that is touted as making Istanbul’s best baklava, falls so short of the mark it seems like they aren’t even trying. It reminded me of the baklava I used to eat at Mamoun’s at 3 am when I was in college. The thing behaved more like a burger than a pastry-the insides would slip out creating increasingly unbalanced bites until I was left with no phyllo dough and all filling. Who ever thought Güllüoglu would channel a New Haven, CT dive for drunks and stoners instititution as their inspiration?
Now for a baklava that is beyond reproach, visit its birthplace, Gaziantep. When it comes to this flaky, nutty, honey saturated pastry, no one does it like this city in southern Turkey. After just one bite of fıstıklı (pistachio) baklava last January, my life was changed forever, and in no small way. Even though the pastry is made of many layers of nuts, phyllo dough and honey, you would never know that they were separate entities. They work together in perfect harmony and resist the tendency evinced by Güllüoglu and Mamoun’s balkava to shift under the pressure of your teeth. Now if anyone knows where I can find this property in a baklava in Turkey I need to know!
Update: There is, in fact, great baklava in Istanbul. Güllüoglu just happens to be resting on their laurels a bit these days. I recommend heading to a baklavaci (shop specializing in baklava).
Categories: Istanbul, Sweets & Dessert, Turkish Cuisine
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Hi Katie! Yes, you are correct. In fact, I have found that most Turkish food in Turkey tastes better outside of Istanbul! I’m not a big fan of baklava, but a lot of my friends enjoy Saray on Istıklal Caddesi in Taksim. You might want to give it a try before heading out.
March 7th, 2009 at 10:14 amI’ll try it out. Ive also scoped out some pastry shops in other parts of the city on both continents so look for a full report at the end of the trip.
March 7th, 2009 at 10:23 amWow, a Mamoun’s shout out! That’s where I discovered the Turkish Delight. Thanks for the updates, sounds like an amazing time!
Enjoy the rest of your trip!
March 7th, 2009 at 10:28 pmHey Scott, Yeah Mamoun’s is quite an institution. I miss New Haven!!! Im having a great time here and was just thinking today of how similar some of the dishes are to Sicilian ones, especially la pasticceria salata. The dough used for pizzette and sfincioni is identical to the little pizzas served here at pastry shops at lunchtime. It makes me feel right at home.
March 7th, 2009 at 10:47 pmAs you mentioned, probably the best baklava is made in Gaziantep. Imam Cagdas (www.imamcagdas.com) is a well known place for baklava and kebab but the locals from Gaziantep are saying that there are better restaurants. The sweets website of imam cagdas look so delicioussss.
March 28th, 2009 at 2:45 pmI’m going to Istanbul in about a month. I’ve also heard of Gulluoglu being “the best in Istanbul” and now that I’m come across this entry, I’d really like to know where to get the best baklava in Istanbul! Do you have the names/locations of some baklavacis for me to visit and try? Thank you so much!
April 1st, 2009 at 5:53 am@Tania, I quite like the baklava from Cafer Erol and the neighborhood shops selling only baklava. You can try the baklava at Güllüoglu then hop the ferry from Karakoy to Kadikoy and try what Cafer Erol has to offer. Afiyet olsun!
April 1st, 2009 at 1:04 pm