I made my first trip to Istanbul in 2002 during my post graduation backpacking trip. I planned to stay for 2 days and remained a week. I never wanted to leave. After years of being a regular visitor (and occasional resident) I have gotten to know the city pretty well. You can read my tips for tackling Istanbul here. Some of my favorite places to eat are:
Asmalı Cavit: A meyhane in Beyoğlu and one of the best places in the neighborhood for a traditional meal of mezes and raki. Asmalımescit Cad. No:16/D – Beyoğlu.
Canim Ciğerim: A restaurant serving diced grilled liver with flatbread and vegetable sides. An institution. Minare Sk. No: 1 – Beyoğlu – website.
Kaymakçı Pando: Another Istanbul institution, this Beşiktaş breakfast spot serves kaymak (clotted cream made with buffalo’s milk) with honey and bread. Köyiçi Meydanı Sokak – Beşiktaş.
Tarihi Karaköy Balikcisi: Tucked away on a back street amongst vendors selling hardware and scuba gear, Tarihi Karaköy Balikcisi may very well be the best fish restaurant in town. Go at lunch when Maharrem Usta is working the charcoal. Tersane Cad. Kardeşim Sok. No:45/A – Karaköy – website.
Kantin: Owned by my close friend chef Şemsa Denizsel (who has been called the Alice Waters of Turkey), Kantin uses fresh, seasonal, meticulously sourced ingredients to create both traditional and creative dishes. Open until 8pm. Akkavak Sokak 30 – Nişantaşı – website.
Van Kahvaltı Evi: Big breakfasts, Van style. Two locations – website.
İskele: This classy fish restaurant spectacularly sited between the ruins of Rumeli Hisarı (an Ottoman fortress) and the second Bosphorus Bridge. Yahva Kemal Caddesi 1 – Rumeli Hisarı – website.
Mikla: Chef Mehmet Gürs’ Turkish-Scandanavian restaurant in the Marmara Pera Hotel continues to set the standard in Istanbul’s fine dining scene.
Kenan Usta Ocakbaşı: This restaurant near Taksim does the best külbastı (charcoal-grilled marinated beef) in town. If you have one grilled meat dish in all of Istanbul, it should be this one.
Pideban Sariyer: Stellar Black Sea style pide. The long and narrow closed ground meat pide is to die for. Bahçeköy Cad. No:1 (Shell arkası) – Sarıyer.
Beylerbeyi İskele Restaurant: This fish restaurant in the quiet Beylerbeyi neighborhood on the Asian side serves excellent mezes and grilled catch by the Bosphorus. Beylerbeyi İskele Cad. No : 13 / B – Beylerbeyi.
Fatih Karadeniz Pidecisi. Probably the best pide in town. Buyukkaraman Cad. No.57 – Fatih.
Kebabçı Yusuf Usta’nın Yeri: A grill house with great mezes specializing in the food of Adana in southeastern Turkey. Eminali Paşa Caddesi No:65/3 – Erenköy.
Sıdıka: This little restaurant near the W Hotel serves outstanding Aegean mezes and grilled fish. Şair Nedim Cad. No:38 – Beşiktaş – website.
For great advice from locals be sure to check out Istanbul Eats and Istanbul Food.
July 24th, 2011 at 9:58 pm
[...] Food Skip to content HomeAboutBooksContactMobile AppsMy IstanbulMy NaplesMy RomePressPublished WorkTours ← Turan, Artisian Beer From Northern Lazio [...]
July 28th, 2011 at 10:18 am
Great short list Katie. Thanks to your suggestion, I took a close second look at Asmali Cavit and I totally agree, it’s the best spot for meze in Amsali Mescit.
July 28th, 2011 at 6:06 pm
Thank you for the wonderful recommendations Katie. Even though I am from Turkey, at times even I am overwhelmed during our visits. Your suggestions are always helpful.
August 26th, 2011 at 9:50 am
Great Recomendations
I am very surprised to see you knowing İSTANBUL very well and how you are keen on to Turkish Cuisine. People outside the TÜRKİYE have prejudices as we here in TÜRKİYE live in the oldest ages and have another state of mind. I just liked the way you discovering very nice sides of living here and eating here in TÜRKİYE. So go on and tell more about visinting İSTANBUL. Because here we have a lot of amazing stuff going on
August 26th, 2011 at 9:51 am
Great Recomendations
I am very surprised to see you knowing İSTANBUL very well and how you are keen on to Turkish Cuisine. People outside the TÜRKİYE have prejudices as we here in TÜRKİYE live in the oldest ages and have another state of mind. I just liked the way you’re discovering very nice sides of living here and eating here in TÜRKİYE. So go on and tell more about visinting İSTANBUL. Because here we have a lot of amazing stuff going on
September 16th, 2011 at 5:36 pm
there is a brekkers spot in Istanbul where they serve kaymak and *you never told me before my trip*?
oh my god, i have to go back, Katie! x shayma
September 25th, 2011 at 6:17 pm
Dear Katie
Congratulations for your great websites and articles. We, on the island (Bozcaada) are still waiting with patience to read your articles about Bozcaada.
Any idea when you’re going to publish them?
Best regards Oliver
October 27th, 2011 at 5:43 pm
@Ansel that’s great news. wonder how the recent NYT press will affect getting a reservation there in the high season. ill be back to try it out again next week!
@Aysegul Thanks very much for your kind words! Are there any favorites missing from the list?
@ İlke Cok sagol! I actually have loads of istanbul restaurants to post about. I spent the month of August in Turkey and STILL have not written about my experiences dining in Istanbul. Stay tuned:)
@Shayma oh my god. i didnt tell you about Pando. Shame on me. Wanna meet there for breakfast nov 7?
@Oliver Thanks very much! The article will be published in the spring. I think that actually works better than if it had been published in the fall. That way, the island will be fresh in people’s minds when they plan their summer holidays!
December 14th, 2011 at 1:54 pm
Just sent this an a few others of your recommendations to a colleague who is going to Istanbul for the holidays.
I so wich I could go back…