I am shamelessly obsessed with Naples and, though I have been based in Rome since 2003, I have spent a great deal of time there exploring, writing guide books and filming several episodes of “Cities of the Underworld”. I am completely in love with the place and it saddens me that lots of visitors to Italy skip Naples on their way to the Amalfi Coast, squandering precious culinary and cultural opportunities in the process. Naples has one of the best food cultures in the country and its specialties scratch nearly every imaginable gastronomic itch. Here are some places I love in one of the best cities on the planet to eat:
For pizza: Sorbillo (Via dei Tribunali 32), La Notizia (Via Caravaggio, 53-55), I Decumani (Via dei Tribunali 58-61), Starita a Materdei (Via Materdei 27-28), Di Matteo (Via Tribunali 94).
For cheese: Squisitezze (via santa maria di costantinopoli).
For typical Neapolitan fare: Donna Teresa (Via Kerbaker 58), Cantina di Via Sapienza (Via Sapienza 40-41).
For fish: Peschiera Mattucci (Vico Belledonne A Chiaia 27).
For pastries: Aruta (Via Porta San Gennaro 34), Mignone (Piazza Cavour 146), Angelo Carbone (Largo Regina Coeli 4).
For coffee: Bar Tico (Via del Duomo 27).
For drinks: Perditempo (Via San Pietro a Maiella 8), Trip (Via Martucci, 64).
July 1st, 2011 at 8:01 am
Hey, thanks for putting a good word in for Naples! I try to tell people about the amazing food here and they sometimes look at me with pity, like I live in a trash pit and am trying desperately to find something to redeem the city I now call home. But no, really. I have good food more consistently here than in any other city I’ve visited in Italy. It’s awesome.
My favorite place — Napoli Mia — unfortunately just closed, so I’m back on the hunt for a new favorite haunt. I think it got driven out of business partially by the much-lauded Europeo di Mattozzi right nearby, which also has very good food.
You should try some stuff up in the Vomero next time you’re down here(that’s where I live). I like Don Giovanni (on Via Cilea), Trattoria Caprese (corner of Via Scarlatti and Via Luca Giordano — despite cartoonish decorations, their fish pasta specials never have failed me) and for pizza, Trattoria Cilea on Via Cilea.
I feel very lucky to live here in Naples but I rely on your posts a lot to help me navigate the Rome food scene, since I’m not up there enough to know which restaurants are still good and which newcomers are worth trying. Thanks a bunch!
July 1st, 2011 at 10:01 am
I love your blog about eating and living in Naples! Oh no! I had no idea Napoli Mia closed! That is so depressing:( Thanks for all these great recommendations. You ARE very lucky to live in Naples. I have this fantasy of spending a month in the city and reporting daily from there about all its amazing food and culture. It really needs and deserves all the good press it can get. Did you catch The Frugal Traveler’s post on Naples? Fantastic for the city’s visibility! Keep up the good work!!
July 22nd, 2011 at 4:10 pm
I am also obsessed with Naples and am convinced it is the world’s greatest city.
July 24th, 2011 at 9:32 pm
I love that you love Naples. What a place.
August 14th, 2011 at 10:41 am
Hi Katie. Love the blog, well done
For some more suggestions for Naples you might like to have a look at mine: http://gannet39.wordpress.com/category/italy/campania-italy/naples/
Think we have a few places in common
Best wishes, R
August 14th, 2011 at 10:46 am
Thanks Ralph! Why no love for La Notizia?
August 17th, 2011 at 7:03 pm
Haven’t been yet but I promise I will! I’ve been to Naples nearly every year for ten years now and have been most places so I’m really looking forward to experiencing somewhere new, thank you for the suggestions. Will let you know how I get on
August 30th, 2011 at 9:04 am
I too love Naples. It’s funny how we all think we are the only ones. I agree that it has some of the best food in Italy–and that’s saying a lot.
September 5th, 2011 at 4:19 am
Another huge point in common: l’amore per Partenope!!
I lived in Naples for 3 years, a little over a decade ago. It was the best time of my life, and where I tasted and learned a lot about the most diverse and awesome cuisine in Italy. My roots on my mother’s side are Neapolitan, and I felt a true belonging. Plus there was love, a well-paid job; living in an amazing penthouse in Chiaia… the works.
I occasionally go back, even just for a day–sit on the breakwater across from the Castello, take in the saline air and then head uphill, climbing familiar alleys and secret pathways.
The only thing I can’t keep up with is the restaurants, in these 12 years much has changed. Your tips are a godsend, thank you.
September 14th, 2011 at 11:45 am
Hey! Napoli Mia is back with the same food as always. I’ve been there twice now and had great stuff both times. http://melissajsantos.com/?p=329
Also was just in Rome and hit up L’Arcangelo (on gnocchi Thursday), Roscioli, L’Asino d’Oro and Da Danilo. All were wonderful recommondations, thank you.
October 25th, 2011 at 5:24 pm
Dear Katie,
I’m from Caserta and studied in Naples… How could you miss among pizza places Michele in Forcella? It’s the best, without any doubt… Di Matteo and Sorbillo can’t suffer the comparison… And among pastries Scaturchio in Piazza San Domenico Maggiore? Kind regards
December 5th, 2011 at 3:48 pm
Naples is so fascinating… and what do you think about Florence? I think it’s the world’s greatest city! I really love the typical products of Tuscany, like wine, cheeses and cured meats. Do you know the tuscan olive oil Laudemio? It is AMAZING!
Thank you for sharing.
January 18th, 2012 at 5:25 pm
Ettore and I will be in Naples on Sunday! So of course i had to check this out. Do have any enoteca recs??
January 18th, 2012 at 5:48 pm
I am so homesick now.. I get to enjoy Napoli as a tourist now when I manage to go and loooove eating out! had lunch in sunny pozzuoli at the Vecchio Molo – genovese di mare, very good. If you happen to spend sometime there.
January 31st, 2012 at 1:35 am
I am from Chicago with many cousins in Naples, we visit every September.
I know it’s a crazy place but, the food, the people, the closeness to so many wonderful places cannot be beat.
I don’t eat out much when we are there because the cousins won’t have it but EVERYONE should see and visit Naples once in their life…..
Warmly, Carol from Chicago