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Trastevere was once a haven of cheap, delectable, no-frills dining, but in recent years, the district has become a bastion of tourist traps in which cheesy checked tablecloths and aggressive touts are far more numerous than great meals. This district, which lies on the Tiber River’s left bank, opposite the Centro Storico, is undeniably (more…)

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Rome’s historical center has gotten way more interesting lately. Trust me, it is still dominated by tourist traps and that won’t change anytime soon. But small changes are afoot and a clued-in visitor can eat pretty well these days. There’s (more…)

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True love.

Update: The event has been cancelled for extenuating circumstances and is postponed until further notice. (more…)

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The Ara Pacis.

Today marks the 2,000th anniversary of the Augustus’ death. In a city in which more than a few great leaders have drawn on the lessons of the emblematic first Emperor, you might expect some actual fanfare. But this is 21st century Rome, and for a myriad of reasons, the city has chosen a predictable path and undertaken (more…)

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Competition among Naples’ historic pizzerias is fierce and for decades, institutions have reigned, attracting loyal admirers with their cheap pies and no frills atmosphere. But recently, the preeminence of the city’s long established pizza joints is being challenged by a new crop of pizzerias seeking to transform the humble native dish into a gourmet product crafted with top notch ingredients. I traveled to Naples for the NYT to explore the city’s new school pizzeria 50 Kalò, where tradition and inovation dwell in delicious harmony. The whole story is online and in this weekend’s paper.