cesare bergamini eel fisherman

Cesare and Alfredo Bergamini have been fishing for eels in the Tiber since 1947. Now 74 and 77, respectively, the brothers learned the profession from their grandfather. In post-war Rome, they shared the water with other eel fishermen–and a great deal more eels. But falling eel stock caused by pollution coupled with spiraling profitability due to collapsed demand has driven others away from the trade. (more…)

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A very pricey cocktail in progress on the roof of the new-ish DOM Hotel.

The DOM Hotel, a five-star luxury retreat, opened on Via Giulia in central Rome a little less than a year ago. The place is a good value, in relation to its category, and the location is hard to beat. I weigh DOM’s pros and cons in this Sunday’s NYT Travel section (or read online here).

paccheri enoteca provincia romana

When Enoteca Provincia Romana opened four years ago just off Piazza Venezia, local guides rejoiced. Finally, there was a place near the Roman Forum where one could go for a decent meal, plus it offered a view of Trajan’s Column and the Altare della Patria to boot. The food was good, but not flawless, and the place rarely (more…)

brooks headleys fancy dessertd

I’m totally hooked on Brooks Headley’s desserts. The cookies, cakes and frozen treats he and his team make in Del Posto’s award winning kitchen are rooted in flavor and texture clashes that achieve a beautiful harmony through their contradiction. Like Brooks, they are endearingly unconventional and completely without (more…)

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Illustration by Jen Kruch for PUNCH.

I am super excited/honored/elated to be a part of the new PUNCH city guides, which give the low down on where to drink wine, cocktails and craft beer in cities across the globe. Check out my Rome guide and London contributions, then poke around the PUNCH site for brilliant narrative journalism guided by Ten Speed Press and my supremely talented editors Talia Baiocchi (author of this magnificent modern guide to sherry) and Leslie Pariseau.