flavio carbonara

A decent carbonara is pretty easy to come by in Rome. But no one visits the Italian capital in search of a merely passable pasta dish. After several thousand Roman restaurant meals over the past dozen years—including more misses than I care to recall—I have narrowed down the top plates of pasta in the Italian capital, from cult classics to signature dishes, each expertly crafted, extraordinarily delicious, and worth a flight. For the inside scoop on gricia, you’ll have to check out Carla Lalli Music’s article in this month’s Bon Appetit, but my favorite pasta dishes in town are on BonAppetit.com now.

vignarola pantheon
Brutto ma buono.

After a long hiatus, Chef John Regefalk, sous chef at Rome’s one Michelin starred Metamorfosi, is back! This time, he’s not urban foraging for olives nor pickling capers plucked from the Aurelian Wall. Instead, he’s come by to share his recipe for vignarola. This springtime stew brings together the first peas and (more…)

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The Mad Dog “speakeasy”.

From speakeasy-inspired cocktail bars and natural wine bars to offal-laced restaurant menus, Torino constantly leaves me thirsty and hungry for more. This elegant city in Piedmont feels worlds away from Rome and I love strolling its porticoed streets, grazing from place to place. Here are my top picks for where to eat and drink:

A very special thanks to Vittorio Rusinà of Tirebouchon for making so many of these suggestions!

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Last month, Pizzarium, Gabriele Bonci’s landmark pizza by the slice place, closed for a shockingly brief renovation. In a matter of a couple of weeks, the popular hole-in-the-wall expanded into the neighboring space (a recently shuttered barber shop), doubling Pizzarium’s size. While the previous incarnations of Pizzarium were (more…)

Eating & Drinking in Rome

The handy ebook Eating & Drinking in Rome is now available for Kindle–so that means you can view it on your Kindle, as well as the Kindle App on your phone! The book offers listings of my favorite places to eat and drink, plus offers insight and advice regarding the city’s gastronomic culture. For the PDF version released last week, you can head over to Gumroad, a fun self-publishing site, here. Enjoy!