La Gatta Mangiona

UPDATED JAN 2013: Rome may not be Italy’s official pizza capital. That title goes to Naples. But you can find a variety of styles in Rome, from paper-thin Roman style, square pizza-by-the-slice, and thick-rimmed Neapolitan style. Not all of it is great. In fact, I would argue that most of the local Roman style pies out there are edible, not excellent, and famous places like Baffetto are underwhelming. But there is some amazing stuff out there (especially boutique Neapolitan style). Here’s a round-up:

For thin crust Roman style, you can’t beat Da Remo on Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice, 44 in Testaccio. It is only open at dinner and is likely the best of its genre. I also like Li Rioni on Via Dei Ss. Quattro Coronati, 24 near the Colosseum. It’s my local and wins major convenience points, but isn’t worth a trip the way Da Remo is. For a very decent pizza near Piazza Navona, Dal Paino on Via di Parione 34 does the trick, and it’s open at lunch. Like Li Rioni, it’s not the greatest pizza on earth, but it will fill a void and is vastly superior to its neighbors.

For downright excellent pizza by the slice, check out Gabriele Bonci’s Pizzarium (via della Meloria 43). I also recommend Antico Forno Roscioli (Via dei Chiavari 34) for some pizzas, the sausage and potato-based ones are super heavy. Nearby, Pizzeria Florida (Via Florida 25), is quite good, as are 00100, and Forno Campo de’ Fiori (Campo De’ Fiori, 22).

For excellent boutique Neapolitan-style pizza (high quality ingredients, long leavening, carefully honed recipes), check out Sforno (Via Statilio Ottato, 110-116), La Gatta Mangiona (Via F. Ozanam, 30-32), and Tonda (via Valle Corteno 31).

In other generes, La Fucina (Via G. Lunati 25-31) serves a sort of focaccia with toppings and La Pratolina serves oblong pies called pinse. Both are highly recommended.

Please avoid central Rome’s most overrated pizzerie, both in Trastevere: Dar Poeta and Bir e Fud, serving inedible pizzas with a smile and wonky pizzas with a frown, respectively.


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Carbs · Culture · Food & Wine · Gastronomic Traditions · Pizza · Restaurants · Rome & Lazio

55 Comments:


  • Daccordo with almost everything. And Dar Poeta and Bir e Fud do not serve Roman pizza, so I’ll except that, too. But my very very favorite is one that rarely gets mentioned (maybe it is ok that way), always full with a long line in front and till now me and the people with me were the only foreigners who ever got there: Giacomelli. Though I will admit I haven’t been to your first 4 for a while now bcs we are always so happy with Giacomelli, and I think I should get out of the rut and check them out again. May re-order my preferences!

  • Katie

    I’ve never been to Giacomelli. Are they open at lunch? That’s when I’m over in Prati most, but I have been known to travel great distances for amazing pizza!


  • If I come in Italy I always eat pizza!


  • They are open for lunch though I am not sure if they have pizza then, never been for lunch!


  • I agree 100%, including the negatives. Bir & Fud should not serve pizza, by law. Since I commented on your previous Dar Poeta post I decided to go back there just to see if what you said was true, and alas it was. Dar Poeta has in the last 6 years gone terribly bad.

    Curious about Hande’s Giacomelli…

    Ciao


  • We went to L’Archetto on an earlier recommendation from Katie when we were in Rome in December. The pizza was very good. Nice staff too. One of the owners spoke to us for about 15 minutes about Rome, NYC, food, etc.

  • Katie

    @Eleonora we should draft legislation against Bir & Fud’s right to serve pizza!

    @Tom so glad you made it. It is a great place for pizza before or after a visit to the Vatican Museums, though if Giacomelli serves pizza at lunch, it is certainly closer


  • Katie- have you ever tried Pizzarium near Cipro, via della Meloria?Roberto, who like you is a pizza lover, thinks it’s the best pizza al taglio in Rome and although I haven’t tried them all, I must say it’s amazing (their bread is also delicious). It’s not the cheapest place but it’s sooo good. I’ll try the others I haven’t tried from your list.

  • Katie

    Yes I like Pizzarium a lot, though I am usually so spent after a visit to the Museums that I can’t drag myself over there!


  • I think it’s interesting that you went out of your way not to mention Da Baffetto — the Roman institution that all other pizzerie aspire to be (at least when it comes to packed tables and a very long line out the door). And the pizza is great, too — I particularly like mine topped with beans. But I believe you knew it would paint you as a guidebook hack to mention it. So good work avoiding that.

    Yes, Bir e Fud doesn’t have very good pizza — but considering it exists solely to serve Italian microbrews (from the tap, no less) they’re exonerated.

    Finally, the pizza at Dar Poeta is good. It’s just unfortunate that their cramped seating and toddler-sized chairs lead to back spasms within minutes. Fortunately their Nutella stuffed calzone takes most of the pain away.

    Thanks for the tips.

  • Katie

    No the reason I left out Baffetto is because I think it belongs in my Rome’s Most Overrated Restaurants post. You’re right about the Nutella calzone but wrong about Bir e Fud existing solely to serve Italian microbrews. That is Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fa’ across the street. Bir e Fud was opened by a pizzaiolo (Gabriele Bonci) and they serve microbrews so it is both an overrated pizzeria and a decent birreria.


  • Katie, can you elaborate on your thoughts on Baffetto? After a lot of research, I decided to just go for it and see what the fuss was about. I also liked that its open on Sunday evenings when almost no restaurants on my list are open. I think Remo appealed most, but it was closed that night. I must have spend 8 hours on the net researching pizza in Rome! Going in circles! But I love your blog :)


  • Oops I should mention I haven’t gone to any yet, trip is is July


  • Remo is where it’s at. Just came from dinner there, where after baccala, fiore di zucca and a pizza I seriously considered eating a second pizza.


  • I’d like to know if these pizzerias open on Sunday. I know that many restaurants are not open on Sundays…so kinda worried.

  • Katie

    Sunday is a BIG pizza night in Rome so dont worry! you’ll find plenty of them open (most are closed lunch and either Mon or Tues)


  • Thanks so much for the reply! Your restaurant reviews are always great help.


  • and what about pino arletto? he’s situated nearby vatican, my personal experience is very good, but has anyone else tried the spot?


  • [...] A: For a list of my favorite places, check out this post. [...]


  • This has to be most accurate round-up of Rome’s best Pizzerie that I’ve come across anywhere. Couldn’t agree more about Da Poeta being completely overrated either. Why can’t they make pizza as good as Forno Campo de’ Fiori and 00100 in England?


  • [...] Some Helpful Links A Guide To Rome’s Boutique Pizzerias Rome’s Best Pizza [...]


  • Hey Katie,

    Thanks for your earlier reply about my birthday dinner in Rome. We arrive on a Sunday so we are going to head for pizza that night, but we want to stay IN Trastevere. (I know you had mentioned a place a bit farther, but we have my grandfather who needs to rest after traveling). Since this post was written over a year ago, I was just wondering what your latest assessment was: Da Ivo or Ai Marmi? If they are equal in your opinion, which has a better atmosphere or better outdoor seating? Also, can we make reservations at these places? Thanks so much!


  • Where is the best pizza near the Spanish steps for dinner?

  • Katie

    The neighborhood is best avoided for dining, especially pizza. however, there is a good pizza by the slice called fior fiore on via della croce. here’s my list of the best places in town: http://www.parlafood.com/a-guide-to-romes-boutique-pizzerias/

    and here’s my list from the guardian: http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2011/jul/13/top-10-pizza-places-rome


  • I’ve been going to work 30 minutes early to get to Pizzarium before my afternoon tours. YUMMY. Also I love Zaza. I have to admit I am more of a pizza al taglio gal than pizza rotonda. Great list and I need to try them all.


  • Thanks for all of your recommendations. I’ve been in Rome for about a week now, and your site has really helped me navigate the food situation in Rome, especially the Prati area!


  • Rome is my home town, so I can guarantee that the places you mention in your list are making real good thin and crispy typical roman pizza.


  • Katie, have you ever considered setting up a personal Google Map with the locations of the various restaurants that you review? I’ve started doing that for trip planning purposes and it’s pretty great. That way people could look and see your reviews for restaurants by area in Rome.

    Just a thought. Love your blog.

  • Katie

    Yes and it is on the “to do” list! I have one for gelato and hope to find the time for other thematic google maps. In the meantime the pizza category of my app (romeforfoodies.com) has a map which works offline


  • As a pizza lover I have studied your “work” here for suggestions for some lovely meals when I come to Rome next week. Unfortunately my birthday is on Monday, and I wonder if some of the good pizzerias would be open then? We stay near Campo de Fiori, but I am prepared to travel a bit for the real good stuff! Thanks in advance,
    Anne

  • Katie

    @Anne try Tonda! It is spectacular. http://www.tondatonda.com/

    sforno is also sensational

    http://www.sforno.it/


  • Hey ppl!
    Baffetto – the pizza is too soggy in the center, the wine was mixed with water! So don’t order wine just have some bottled beer. I think it’s enough to judge the level of the place. 20 minuteus in que and 40!!! For the pizza that is cooked in 2 minutes max.

    Just colse to Baffetto is Montecarlo. Had a carbonara plate. They forgot it and i waited for 30 minutes before they realised that i’m waiting for something. The pasta was almost raw, it was literraly hard to chew it. But the most imortant is that the creamy egg and cheese sauce was cooked so badly that the egg came overcooked and turnd in flakes. A disaster!

    Pizzarium – too far away and expensive. The pizza is good but i payed almost 20€ for 5 small peices of pizza and a beer. U can have a decent supper for 20€.


  • [...] You can also get great pizza at an affordable price. Check out the places recommended in this post. [...]


  • You need to try La Montecarlo, around the corner from Baffetto, I Marmi on Viale Trastevere and most of all Laboratorio 3 on Via di Pietralata.

  • Katie

    i’ve tried it. this list focuses on the places with great ingredients and the very few top roman style places.


  • @ Paolo…..please your list sucks…Laboratorio 3 is venomous, orrible, you ate yourself


  • @francesco nice too see respect for other’s opinions.

    I like those three, if you don’t good for you

  • Katie

    Francesco, Parla Food has a no trolling policy. you can be critical but don’t be a jerk (that’s my job)


  • I’m so sorry katie, but when i read or ear these things I can’t stop myself… These will be the last time; i have to control my reactions even if….


  • Thank you for introucing us to Tonda, BTW. Sooooooo good. An also Barfetto is the worst pizza on the planet. I would prefer pizza hut to that place.


  • Hi Katie,

    do you know a good place in Rome to do a pizza workshop with a group of 34 people?

  • Katie

    Imke, 34 people is far too many to do a single workshop. are you flexible and when would this be?


  • For me, Da Francesco is the best of the Pizza places. Yes, the Pizza itself is good but not great, but the atmosphere is so typically Roman and the pizza is good enough.


  • I used to think of 00100 and Pizzarium as the best pizza by the slice joints. Now that I live in Monteverde Vecchio, I have been shown the light by Pizzeria da Simone. It’s absolutely worth the special trip on the 75 or 44 buses to via Carini in Monteverde Vecchio. Yes, it’s my local, but overly crunchy pizza crusts are what I seemed to get at the other two while Simone does it just right. No more raw roof of my mouth like when I ate Cap’n Crunch as a kid. When it’s fresh out of the oven their pizza bianca is one of the best. I’m also partial, however, to the margherita, ‘nduja, the salsiccia e mozzarella. Lots of fritti selection as well. Tuesdays and Fridays are seafood days which you must order at noon to pick up at night.

  • Katie

    must check that out!!


  • You bloody Americans: the thinner the slice, the better. And what’s with all the poncy gourmet nonsense? I mean honestly.

    With that in mind and in no particular order: Il Podista on via Tiburtina (San Lorenzo bit), Ai Marmi on Viale Trastevere (too expensive, but v good), da Remo and Formula Uno are my tops.

    Anyone who lives in south west Rome should try out Acquolina on via Enrico Fermi. Mortadella e crema di noci…. *dribbles*


  • if you are down san lorenzo way, try “il maratoneta”.
    Very roman, great staff,just a typical nice local place.plus my favorite bruschetta in the world. lots of oil, salt,and garlic taste and NOT soggy snd falling apart in th middle. corer of volsci and sardi. check it out if you believe formula 1 is the best in San Lo. It may surprise you.


  • Thanks for your blog! I used it a load when I was in Italy. I knew Remo already as my friend when I lived in Rome was based in Testaccio so we went to Remo a lot, and we went again this time http://www.mylifeinsin.com/2013/08/pizzeria-da-remo-probably-one-of-best.html

    And we went to various other of your recommended places be it for pizza, pinsa or ice cream that I will be writing up soon :)

    Thanks again!


  • Katie,

    Hi there. Really enjoy your blog, site, and app. I’m going to be in Rome leading a short study abroad program for Engineers from the University of Washington in Seattle. I wanted to know if you had any thoughts on where to take them for an easy first night out for dinner. I’m thinking pizza or something like that. We are 19 total. Will definitely try and run down a few of your recommended places to eat while we are in Rome.

  • Katie

    that’s tough. good food and big groups don’t usually mix. but recently i met the niversity of gastrobomic sciences class at tonda and it was great. it’s not in the center, but most good food isnt:)


  • […] Pizza around Rome […]


  • Hi Katie.

    I just came back from a three week whirlwind trip to Italy and loved it. Your blog was also a great source of information and insight – so thank you! We managed to check out Forno Campo de’ Fiori, Pizzarium, and La Renella. While the pizzas by the slice were very good, I didn’t find them as great as can be and I think it comes down to…temperature. I may be in the minority on this, but the temperature of food is a big deal to me. I prefer my pizza to be piping hot. I never understood people’s love for cold pizza the next morning…a room temperature crust with congealed cheese just isn’t the same as a crispy crust with melty, hot cheese.

    Anyway, at virtually all the by-the-slice pizzerias we tried throughout Italy, the pizza was quickly reheated but essentially still cold (if reheated at all). The only exceptions were when we happened to be around at exactly the moment a fresh pizza came out of the oven. I also found this temperature issue to be true of many other baked or fried snacks such as arancini (at even the better places).

    So I’m really curious… What is your opinion on the temperature of pizza and how it affects your enjoyment of the pizza? (when you’re not ordering a whole pie, that is) Are most people just used to snacking on pizza served at room temperature? In Rome, is it weird or common to ask a place to reheat pizza to be extra hot?

    Thanks in advance for your thoughts!


  • […] Neither the salad nor the pizza was anything to write home about.  We then checked out what Katie Parla said. We agreed with Ms. Parla, Dar Poeta was over hyped and not that great.  Katie becomes […]


  • it’s weird how “Alice” pizza a taglio … very successful and not touristic (except for that one spot near the vatican) is not on ur list…

    how come? (just asking btw, not supporting anyone, I don’t even live there anymore)


  • Hi Katie,

    very nice blog, I just discovered it and I like it a lot.
    I understand you live (like me) in Monteverde Vecchio, so I really suggest you to try the excellent pizza by the slice at Forno Beti (Via Del Vascello). This is a must go, a tradition for Monteverde residents (and for more from different Rome areas…) for a long time. I personally consider it at same level (if not better) than those (excellent) you mentioned in this post.
    And, if you had not done it, yet, as others in this page, I suggest you to try Giacomelli in Prati.

    Ciao!
    Marco

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