
I try my best to stay up on restaurants in Rome but this is no easy task. No matter how hard I try to branch out, there are a few places in Rome that I return to again and again. Believe it or not, consistently above average (and economically accessible) restaurants with decent service are hard to come by in Rome. One I religiously depend on is Trattoria Monti. Recommended in nearly every major guide book and travel publication, this small, bright place, a stone’s throw from Piazza Vittorio maintains its quality and authenticity in spite of its popularity.
The food is mostly marchegiano (from the region of Le Marche on Italy’s central Adriatic coast), which features many handmade egg-based pastas, small game birds, rabbits, and some fish. They have an extensive selection of vini marchegiani-I highly recommend trying one of the fabulous wines from the region. Le Marche’s best varietal white is called Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and is made from the Verdicchio grape; a prestigious red is called Rosso Conero made from the Montepulciano grape and up to 15% Sangiovese.
But lets back up a moment. First you need to make a reservation, an absolute necessity on most nights, unless you want to risk it and try walking in after 10pm. Regardless of how busy the restaurant is, the Camarucci brothers who own Trattoria Monti will greet you kindly and inform you of the day’s specials, crafted from seasonal ingredients.
I suggest beginning with one of their legendary tortini. Translated as flan on the English menu, a tortino is a savory egg custard mixed with veggies and/or cheese. There are several to choose from–I love the cheesy tortino al parmigiano–and it’s not a bad idea to try several. After all, you only live once. While you are at it, ask for some olive ascolane (deep fried olives filled with meat), native to the city of Ascoli Piceno and one of the best foods ever invented.
There are always several pasta specials to choose from, though if you want something uniquely marchgiano, go for the tortello al rosso d’uovo, a large raviolo stuffed with ricotta, spinach, and runny egg yolk, all dressed with a light tomato and basil sauce. If you happen to be there at the right time of year, you may find pasta or risotto with zucchini flowers, pumpkin soup, or pasta with truffles. I am a fan of their pappardelle con asparagi (flat noodles with asparagus) when asparagus is in season.
Second courses include both fish and meat. Involtini di pesce spada (swordfish filets rolled around breadcrumbs, pine nuts and herbs) or baccala’ (cod) prepared in a number of ways are always available. I prefer the rich meat based second courses like stuffed quail or coniglio imporchettato (rabbit stuffed with truffles and sausage). The second courses, too, change depending on the season. Look for game in the autumn and lamb in the spring.
I seriously advise diners to eat every single course at Trattoria Monti, including dessert. I am fully obsessed with their semifreddo all’amaretto (a semi-frozen amaretto ice cream) though in the fall I must have the mousse alle castagne (chestnut mouse).
So, book well in advance and go to Trattoria Monti. Whether you follow my advice or not, you can’t go wrong.
Via San Vito 13
06-4466573
Closed Sun dinner & Mon
Categories: Food & Wine, Rome & Lazio
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Pingback from Restaurants in Rome by Katie Parla
March 17th, 2009 at 9:59 pm[...] Trattoria Monti Via San Vito, 13A (Esquilino) Food from Le Marche served by 2 great looking perma-tanned brothers (their mom is in the kitchen). You must book a table if you want to have dinner here, preferably a couple of days in advance if you want to eat before 10:30pm. Its a small place. Their tortelli con rosso dell’ovo (a big raviolo filled with a runny egg) is pretty amazing. How does Mamma Camerucci do it? Closed Sun dinner and Mon. [...]
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Pingback from Restaurants in Rome
April 11th, 2009 at 7:16 pm[...] Trattoria Monti Via San Vito, 13A (Esquilino) Food from Le Marche served by 2 great looking perma-tanned brothers (their mom is in the kitchen). You must book a table if you want to have dinner here, preferably a couple of days in advance if you want to eat before 10:30pm. Its a small place. Their tortelli con rosso dell’ovo (a big raviolo filled with a runny egg) is pretty amazing. How does Mamma Camerucci do it? Closed Sun dinner and Mon. [...]
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Katie–in anticipation of our trip to Italy (including 5 days in Rome) I’ve been poring over your entries so I can compile a list of restaurants we’ve never tried. I came across this post and realized that you did not include Trattoria Monti on your “Rome’s Best Restaurants, Revisited” post from Mon May 11th, 2009. Was this on purpose? I was at Monti a few years ago and was looking forward to going back. Do you still recommend it? Thanks as always for your excellent input and observations!
Tom
October 13th, 2009 at 3:20 pmYeah I left it out on purpose. Trattoria Montia has disappointed me the last 3 times I have eaten there. I really wanted to give it another chance after the first bad meal. I made the mistake of the second chance. It has definitely lost its attention to detail, though the sformatini and several pasta dishes are still reliable.
October 16th, 2009 at 9:25 amThanks Katie. I was so looking forward to the raviolo al’uovo though. Might have to stop in just for that and a sformatini!
October 20th, 2009 at 5:38 pmThat doesn’t sound like such a bad idea to me. Let me know how it is!
October 23rd, 2009 at 6:15 pm